Kevin Shepherd Designs

[Ozzie]

Welcome Ron. Always liked the Marauder’s design, seems to have all the hallmarks of the Investigator, a well thought through and attractive boat. It’s a shame that the engine was not economically repairable. Have you thought of advertising for a secondhand motor ? There must be people with money who may be coastal cruisers and want to upgrade to a newer motor and have a well serviced existing donk that may be compatible with your boat. Just a thought.

Also would there be any possibility of converting to transom hung outboard ? Extra long shaft. Depends I guess on your intended use. Anyway good luck with your project and keep us informed of your progress.

[Andrew]

G'day Ron, thanks for your detailed post about your Marauder.

Yes, like real estate salesmen, the listing is often made to look far better than it actually is in reality, wide angle lenses , enhanced colours, photoshop etc. Beginning to learn that myself lately.

Every boat ive ever owned always needed TLC , upgrading maintenance and ongoing care. Unfortunatlely there are too many boats out there that are let go a bit. Including my own I563. Although some rigging and sails had been replaced previously. I could see through the raggedy bits and was struck with the pure hull form and practical design layout.

Replaced my outboard 2 years ago, as the original over 30 years old was too expensive to repair again, seems to be a bit of a trend among some 30 to 40 yo boats. and i read online somewhere that most engines life spans are about 30 years. My I563 has been a good learning experience into yacht ownership, operation and economics. Ive also found that the defects i see on the first few inspections, are probably about half of what eventually transpires. and there is an initial "bug ironing out" / upgrades period for awhile to get sailing safely, followed by optional maintenance.

I found an engine refurbishment place online, in a big East coast city, just swap the old donk pay about 3 k and get a reconditioned one. Can't remember details. Could be an economical option to try.

The 27 looks so much like an I563, should be a great cruiser once she's ironed out.

[Ozzie]

Quoting Andrew

“and i read online somewhere that most engines life spans are about 30 years.”

Sometime ago I read that outboards are a thousand hour machine, whereas cars are a ten thousand hour machine. Have not done any doodling on my calculator to verify that but it sounds feasible. With better and finer tolerances in modern manufacturing and better lubricants I guess modern machines could extend that. Of course that takes out the factor of built in obsolescence. Company’s need to keep on selling. Although, that seems not to have upset the computer industry too much.

We can probably look forward to our grandkids going into on outboard shop and saying ..
“ yeah cobber I’d like a high thrust prop for my vintage air cooled Mariner 5hp long shaft outboard for my vintage Investigator trailer sailer here’s my special permit to pollute, but on club days only”

“Yes Sir, it’s take about two minutes to print that off for you, in standard polymer, but three minutes in titanium alloy blend and what colour would you like ?”

[Ronald]

Hi Geoff,

I have nearly raised the final payment for the Beta 14 engine, then there is the installation cost to come. The Beta is a closed water cooling system, twin cylinder giving a smoother operation and comes with a control panel with a Tacho and Hour meter log. The Bukh10 on the boat has a very weather beaten control panel with no lights, a key switch, a buzzer and a water temperature gauge that does not work. I think the problem with the water temperature is a dead sensor. The gearbox problem is the decider to replace the Bukh.

So this is the problem with the mast step and foot, A unique part from around 1977. So no replacement that I can find and I need something the same spacing from deck to mast base for the forestay, and the others, to stay the current length. Several sheaves are jammed and warn so an overhaul of the standing rigging is required. To get the mast base unit for repair i think the mast need to be taken down. I don't think the crack can be welded and I am not sure what will happen when the crack reaches all the way to the top. On thought is to approach a metal foundry and see if they can make a sand cast and make a new one.

Cheers, Ron.

[Ronald]

Regarding the mast base, it would appear that it was originally designed to rotate to match the current tack. In the second photo I can see a bit broken under the left metal sheave which probably was an end-stop to limit the rotation. In the past someone has added the screwed on vertical metal bars to freeze the mast ability to turn. I think the forces then applied to the unit created the crack.

Any suggestions will be happily received.

Ron.

[Geoff]

Hi Ron,

Your engine setup will be beaut when you get it done.

That mast base is a challenge you could do without. Sorry I am absolutely no help to you, hope others might be. Very interested in following how you deal with it though.

Re the rotating mast - Strange that none of the reviews or for sales I can find mention it. Begs the question, was it a taken-for-granted thing in its day for this class of boat, or is yours a one-off mod?

[Ronald]

Hi Geoff

I am talking with Keeley Marine in Melbourne who make mast plugs with sheaves for Trailer Sailors and do repairs and custom manufacture of mast fittings.
keeleymarine.com.au
As I am intending to re-fit the standing rigging, at the best cost, they are also looking at quoting on a whole package.

So after the motor has been replaced the next step is to remove the mast, and the sheave housing, and look at the options. I have not yet resolved the the procedure for the required steps and locations for the work.

I expect the mast may be off for a while and I intend to do the repairs on the hatches and replace the windows at that time. I have purchased the required VHB (Very High Bond) 3M tape and marine standard Dow Corning 795 silicone sealant. After I can make a tracing of the window cutout I will have tinted Plexiglas windows made 25mm larger all around and bond them onto the outside of the cabin.

Reparing the locking mechanism on the hatches may take a bit of engineering ingenuity. I cant afford to replace them at this time. They need to be resealed to the deck so I will make temporary plywood plugs and take the hatches home to work on them.

Ron.

[Geoff]

Hi Ron,

Great stuff. Keeleys are the industry standard as you say for TS masts etc. I didn't know they did rigging too.

Emrys has done a very informative topic/thread in the forum on resealing windows with vhb tape.

What size tape did you go for? There are so many thicknesses to pick from, I will be doing mine soon.

[Ronald]

Hi Geoff,

I purchased from Blackwoods VHB 3M 4991 grey 9mm x 33m (part no 07993458). Its 2.3mm thick and I decided to run two 9mm tapes side by side instead of a single 18mm wide tape. This thickness will leave me space to force the 795 sealant under the window plexiglas. The tape thickness can also allow the window to expand and shrink without releasing. The 795 also is also flexible so I should not have any leaks if I sail to the tropics (Ha Ha). I am following the suggestions of several Youtube videos and will mask around the window on the cabin and the window to stop overflow during application of the sealant. The VHB can also be purchased from RS Components in 1.6mm thickness in 12mm and 19mm width. Also from ebay and Aliexpress in China but watch out for cheap clones.

First step to remove all existing sealant (with GoofOff - Bunnings or De-Bond - All marine) and fill the existing screw holes with resin (with a thickener). Then (when the resin has cured) clean with Acetone (Bunnings) and mark a line 25mm around the cabin cutout as an alignment for the window, then slightly rough up the cabin surface. I have a good quote for the window manufacture from All Plastics in Sydney, about $175 each. My windows are around 1.1 meter long and 255mm high and specified as Grey Tint Acrylic Boat Windows.
https://www.allplastics.com.au/componen ... at-windows?

I have made 3D printed wedges to support the window on the bottom and space the plexiglas away at the ends. After applying the masking tape and VHB i'll do a dry run of the window position, mark the inside of the window to match the cutout and remove the paper in that area from the plexiglas. A light sand of the exposed plastic (on the inside exposed surface) and a spray coat of satin black automotive grade Krylon Fusion for Plastics. This acts as a mask of the bonding materials (from the outside) and protects the bonding material from UV.

After the VHB is exposed the window is sat on the supports and offered up to the tape making contact first in the centre and then working outwards towards each end after each end spacer wedge is removed front and then back end. I have purchased a 30mm Seam Roller to pressure seal the window ( Bunnings 1662302) then force in the 795 all around the window. Finally remove the masking tape and check the bead all around the window.

Then do it 3 more times.

Ron.

[Ozzie]

Good tutorial Ron. Good luck with it all. You are a braver man than I. Those who read my window refit know I chickened out and went back to the original screws. Used paint masking etc in a similar manner to yourself. 563 windows are considerably smaller than yours but I feared things going pear shaped on the stick down. Your procedure with the wedges etc sounds like it will make the job precise and a success.

The front window I did some years ago which has to be bolted down as it curved considerably is now developing small stress cracked but is still waterproof, although I may redo it next haulout and try the tape.

Once again good luck.

Also good to know you can get the VHB tape at Blackwoods. Was it expensive?