Replace hand rail on cabin top?

[Ozzie]

Currently doing haulout and antifoul and my 30 plus year old timber rails on the cabin top of Spritzig II have gone to god , actually not true only the end of one of them. They are anchored in four spots and about 1500 long. they have a slight curve.

Now the traditionalist in me wants to replace them with more timber but they need either varnishing as I've done for the first 5 years I moored the boat or teak oiling as I tried for the last few. The oil is easier but they were really too far gone when I started doing it.

The aging practical old coot in me however is kicking the crepe out of the traditionalist and requesting I replace them with aluminium tube , which may bend to the shape I want or stainless tube which I think I would need to get bent at commercial level.

Comments advice welcome. Don't know what the original timber is but what would I replace it with if I go timber. Anyone whos gone to metal ..how did bending it to the 563 shape go.

[Mark]

I went through this process about a year ago, I found some teak look a like dowel of the same gauge at Bunnings. Instead of teak oil i took the advice of an ancient mariner and used decking oil or whatever it is - I have found it lasts longer and only needs a coat each year, even hen its not major a light sand and a couple of coats which dry quickly.

Also this dowel bent to fit the holding brackets perfectly - instead of screws though i drilled through the decking and replaced with SS bolts as they hold better-sealed the bolts holes with silastic before inserting. All watertight.

[Ozzie]

Thanks Mark did they tell you what the wood was ,oregan ,maple?

[Dr. Peter]

I replaced all my rail. I used four pieces of straight aluminium tube.

[no way]

My original rails were probably Queensland Maple a hardwood. They had been varnished and had deteriorated badly. As the boat was to be on a mooring common sense said use s/s tube but then metal gets very hot. You will curve it ok. As its the only external timber I opted for teak dowel. The real McCoy. Purchase from Caporns at brookvale in Sydney. The stuff you will get at bunnings will be rahmin or some Asian rain forest hardwood. I used thru bolts counterbored to take teak plugs and used sikaflex around the fastening holes for sealant. By bolting its easier to check fit then remove to seal. A one man job with pop top up. Been I the weather for ten years with no coating or oil and perfect

[Ozzie]

Finished up using tassie oak from Bunnys. Local mill did not have 7/8 dowel unless it was broom handles and they were too short . Used deck oil as suggested , which also was used for the new storm boards . Looks really good. Rails were only about $23 so cheap to replace again. I am glad I used timber. Warms the heart

Photo shows :- Foreground, Oak rail with oil. Background, Old bloke getting oiled

Oak rail

photo-1.jpg (35.09 KiB) Viewed 5811 times

[Mark]

ah ha looks just the same as mine replacement.

[IanS]

How did the Tas oak stand up to the weather Ozzie?

Handrail - 1.jpg (18.36 KiB) Viewed 2688 times

[Ozzie]

Good Ian . I was just noting it was 10 years ago I replaced it !!! So really, very good should probably be the answer. I have to be honest though, the idea of regular oiling got old very quickly. Not because of the amount of wood involved but it requires drop cloths under the four supports and care not to drip oil on the fglass as it stains and takes time and effort to remove, particularly if the glass is at end of season and becoming a bit dry and in need of polish. For that reason I subsequently sanded back and varnished the companionway drop board and last haulout used weather shield gloss white and did the logo.

The rails needed replacement last haulout but as I had so many things on the list I left it. Now the ends are quite degraded although the rest is ok. I think if you want mooring safe, metal is the go, although I think ‘no way’ said it gets hot. If I do timber again I’m going to cut some caravan drain hose to length, slit it along the side and clip it over the rail while not using the boat. It’s own little garage so to speak.

Two other ideas I considered. Orange heavy duty electrical conduit, ends filled in with something solid and painted to whatever colour you desired. Second, the green shed sells a black hd poly pipe in various diameters which may suite, only noticed it in passing.

Anyone experimenting with anything else? Let us know what you decide Ian. I must say given I’ve removed all the wood off the exterior of the boat now, toerail, hatch etc, having that one little bit on the cabin roof still looks good.

[IanS]

Thanks for the quick reply Ozzie. I also thought about Polypipe as I am thinking about recycled HDPE for the toerail which has also rotted. Thought about bending aluminium tube but the poly pipe should bend without any trouble. Could be ugly though.

Timber might be nice, good to know the Tas oak stayed the distance.

I suspect the timber inside the fibreglass supports may also be rotted. I'll let you know where I get to.