Hello all
With all of this rain it has shown where my old window seals need replacing.
Can anyone who has done this tell me where they sourced the rubber seal replacements.
Does one need to drill out the rivets to replace the seals or can they just be pushed back in?
any advice glady recieved
Thanks Mark
Window seals
Re: Window seals
I too would be happy to hear from anyone who has found the correct rubber glazing wedge (that's it's correct term).
Had a leak in the front windows a few years ago so when doing a refurb on the fwd cabin I removed the windows completely - they are bolted in, not rivetted, so that I could firstly reseal the aluminium frame to the cabin side. When you remove the wedge - by just pulling it from the join, you can remove the glazing. I chased up new wedge from Marine Window Repairs at Revesby in Sydney but they had no indentical wedge and couldn't assiste me any further. They are no longer but I believe Affordable Boat Windscreens, telephone Cesar on 02 9646 5551 or mobile 0419 251 066 have taken over their rubber stock.
As for my solution; I bedded the perspex in silicon and refitted the old wedge making the join at the top and fairing the missing section of wedge with silicon - the wedge shrinks over time. Never had a problem since. Take care using the correct silicon sealant.
Had a leak in the front windows a few years ago so when doing a refurb on the fwd cabin I removed the windows completely - they are bolted in, not rivetted, so that I could firstly reseal the aluminium frame to the cabin side. When you remove the wedge - by just pulling it from the join, you can remove the glazing. I chased up new wedge from Marine Window Repairs at Revesby in Sydney but they had no indentical wedge and couldn't assiste me any further. They are no longer but I believe Affordable Boat Windscreens, telephone Cesar on 02 9646 5551 or mobile 0419 251 066 have taken over their rubber stock.
As for my solution; I bedded the perspex in silicon and refitted the old wedge making the join at the top and fairing the missing section of wedge with silicon - the wedge shrinks over time. Never had a problem since. Take care using the correct silicon sealant.
Re: Window seals
Hi Folks,
In a past life I was a glazier by trade. So, I would go straight to a glazing firm and ask to view the profiles of the rubber wedges they stock. If no luck there, enquire as to where they buy their stock from, and go to the middle-man.
Bedding the frame into silicon sounds like a good idea, and then back sealing the glazing before pushing the rubber back in should be very thorough indeed. Place the rubber in warm soapy water to make it more workable and use a piece of wood about 2" wide and a foot long to 'walk' the rubber in, by pushing the short end against the rubber and walking/rocking the stick to push the rubber in.
Using this method, any rubber that is close to the original profile will usually do the job.
Cheers, Robert B
In a past life I was a glazier by trade. So, I would go straight to a glazing firm and ask to view the profiles of the rubber wedges they stock. If no luck there, enquire as to where they buy their stock from, and go to the middle-man.
Bedding the frame into silicon sounds like a good idea, and then back sealing the glazing before pushing the rubber back in should be very thorough indeed. Place the rubber in warm soapy water to make it more workable and use a piece of wood about 2" wide and a foot long to 'walk' the rubber in, by pushing the short end against the rubber and walking/rocking the stick to push the rubber in.
Using this method, any rubber that is close to the original profile will usually do the job.
Cheers, Robert B
Re: Window seals
Coincidentally just replaced my very worn perspex windows and got some good local advice - posted in the tech section.
good luck
good luck
Fair winds and following seas
Emrys
Investigator #166 'Current Affair'
Emrys
Investigator #166 'Current Affair'
Re: Window seals
just posted a reply in the Tech section http://www.investigator563.com/forum/vi ... ?f=4&t=339
BTY attached is a photo of the profile of the rubber seal I have in place and need to replace plan to call Cesar as recommended next week.
BTY attached is a photo of the profile of the rubber seal I have in place and need to replace plan to call Cesar as recommended next week.
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Olmate-sail156
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:53 am
Re: Window seals
Rubber seals are news to me.
I have had new windows made for Olmate to fit when the painting is finished and was just planning to bed them into Sikaflex instead of silicon as they were. They were attached with self tapping screws.
Sounds like it was originally a more salubrious setup.
Should I change plans?
Graeme.
I have had new windows made for Olmate to fit when the painting is finished and was just planning to bed them into Sikaflex instead of silicon as they were. They were attached with self tapping screws.
Sounds like it was originally a more salubrious setup.
Should I change plans?
Graeme.
Re: Window seals
Presume you are talking about windows which are just polycarbonate panels screw fixed to the outside face of the cabin side as against aluminium framed windows which is the basis of the thread. Be very careful which sealant you use with your windows. Different sealants are compatible with different panels - polycarbonate, acrylic or whatever and conversely some are non-compatible, and also very messy. Would also use small bolts with nuts as self-tappers destroy/tear the fibreglass around the hole.
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Olmate-sail156
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:53 am
Re: Window seals
Thanks NoWay,
The new windows are perspex. No frames.
Is sikaflex good?
Graeme
The new windows are perspex. No frames.
Is sikaflex good?
Graeme
Re: Window seals
Sikaflex is good. Messy but good.
Robert
Robert
Re: Window seals
Sikaflex is a great product but you have to get the correct one - and yes its messy.
Am in the building game and use some other good adhesive/sealants as well. Was given the latest and greatest yesterday to try out. Its called Soudal (www.soudis.com), made in Belgium and supposed to seal/adhere just about everything and it comes in a clear version (not sure that any Sika product is clear/translucent). Prevoiusly when building boats commercially I used GE silicon as it proved to have the best adhesion. Above all remember that you are making a gasket not using the stuff as a filler.
Am in the building game and use some other good adhesive/sealants as well. Was given the latest and greatest yesterday to try out. Its called Soudal (www.soudis.com), made in Belgium and supposed to seal/adhere just about everything and it comes in a clear version (not sure that any Sika product is clear/translucent). Prevoiusly when building boats commercially I used GE silicon as it proved to have the best adhesion. Above all remember that you are making a gasket not using the stuff as a filler.