Lifting Frame

[Peter T]

Well David, I don't know about strength, but I just found out something about these ratchet straps that I bought. They are rated at 2500 KG each, I got one out of the packet tonight only to find a big warning on it. It says " DO NOT USE FOR LIFTING".
So, it seams they are only for tie down work so why they are rated at 2500 kg for tie down, who knows. When I fitted it up to the lifting frame, it seems too light to do the job so I am going to Launceston tomorrow and will call into Tas Lifting and have a chat with them. On line, it shows that they sell lifting webbing in multiples of 1 metre lengths at varying load rating but don't appear to have the ratchet to tighten them. Perhaps I could measure the length and feed them up and over the holding brackets on the post and link the ends together with a chain going across the top between the two posts. This would work so long as the webbing is only 90 mm wide ? Stay tuned.

Peter T

[Peter T]

Hi all, have had a very "interesting" time to say the least. I decided that because the ratchet straps I had were not suitable to actually lift the boat with, I purchased two, 4 metre, 3 ton flat webbing slings. These have an eye at each end so I also purchased 4 strong rounded U Bolts to fit each end of the slings. Also, another 4 suitable high strength U bolts to fit the lifting frame. I purchased 3 metres of very strong truck chain.
Then this morning I decided that the keel guide rails needed to be taken off the trailer to allow the lifting slings to have free access to lift the boat via the keel. 1st problem, could not remove these as the trailer had collapsed somewhat down the centre and the steps in the axle were resting very heavily on the keel guides. ( this was all that was holding the boat on the trailer) I had to lift the boat away from the trailer to a certain extent to have the axle lift away from the keel runners. This lift was around 3 inches. This took most of the weight off the bunks and now I can just move the boat side to side off the bunks. This explains how bad the trailer actually is and there was way too much weight sitting on the bunks. 90 % of the boats weight is now being taken on the Old mechanical jack and two jack stands under the keel. I will now be able to remove the keel supports so the lifting straps will be clear of obstructions . To fit the straps, I will need to use short lengths of chain between the ends of the straps and the mounting points of the frame. I will fit them as tight as I can and then will be able to lower boat and trailer slowly so the boat will be suspended in the slings. Once the weight has been taken, timber props will be fitted from floor to under the toe rails adjacent to the uprights of the lifting frame.
Photos to follow, wish me luck

Regards Peter T

[Peter T]

Hi David, I won't be buying any lottery tickets, Ha Ha. I had already thought about what you have said re sling stretch. That won't be a problem. As at the moment, the boat is well in the air. I will tighten as much as I can By hand and then let it down and see how much sag there is in it. Then probably lift it again and take a link or two out of the chain if I can and then re lower it. Should be ok, but a very good thought. Where I got the straps from ( Tas Lifting) they did have very sturdy ratchet slings but they were about 5 inches wide and cost well over $300 each. I was advised that what I am doing should be OK as the straps I bought rated at 3 ton each are actually guaranted to carry the weight and are tested to twice what they are rated to as well as being certified. We will find out

Regards Peter T

[Peter T]

Will do David
Cheers

[Peter T]

Latest on the lifting frame, I jacked up the boat above the trailer somewhat to allow removal of the keel guides. All good. Fitted the lifting straps with a few links of chain under the boat and to the lifting frame as tight as I could. Used two screw jack stands ( easy adjust to height) under the keel with pieces of 90 x 90 treated pine as pads. Then jacked up the trailer a bit to be able to lower the ratchet stands one notch and then lowered the trailer back down on to the ratchet stands. I now have around 1 inch clearance between the boat and the bunks so the boat can now lightly rock sideways in place. In other words, it’s free of the trailer but is not yet fully suspended in the lifting slings. I will continue lowering the trailer one notch at a time and then lower the boat on its two screw jack stands until the boat is fully supported by the straps. I was going to use pieces of 90 x 45 timber to support the boat under the toe rails for when I remove the trailer but have decided to fit adjustable side pads off the uprights of the lifting frame to support the upper sides of the hull instead. ( same as they use on haul out frames . I have also fitted a ratchet strap between both front and rear lifting straps to stop them spreading fire and aft due to the profile shope of the keel. More to come, stay tuned
Regards Peter T

[Peter T]

Exactly my thinking David
Regards Peter T

[Ozzie]

Have been reading but not posting Peter. I commend your thoroughness and safety approach on your project. I’m sure it will work well. Cheers. Looking forward to next episode.

[Peter T]

Thanks Ozzie. Didn't get a great deal done today, but have managed to make adjustable brackets and fitted them to the front two posts of the lifting frame with I think 20 x 20 mm square solid bar also adjustable to swiveling pads to rest against the hull to prevent it rocking side to side. I didn't like the idea of timber props as they are not adjustable as you lower the boat into the straps. I just need to make the two rear ones and it will be all go. Also, even though the lifting frame seems really solid being dyna screwed to the floor and with cross bracing, I think I will fit a couple of top pieces between the front and back frames as well. Will take photos and post probably tomorrow. Cheers for now.
Peter T

[Peter T]

Here are a few photos to show what is transpiring with the lifting frame. First photo shows the adjustable post bracket made from 100 x 75 x 5mm plate

Swivel end with soft pad to support hull. The square bar is 20 x 20 solid

Screw jacks supporting weight of boat front and rear of keel. to lower the boat just need to use the large trolly jack to take the weight and then screw down the jack stands and then lower the trolly jack. Note the quality of the old trailer ! and he was going to tow it back home !!! and that is one of the "good " frames. ( zoom in on it !) The two black arrows on the keel are where the water was dripping out of the boat for the first two months that I had it. I ended up with a salt pan on the floor. At least now I will be able to effect proper repairs.

Ratchet jack stands supporting the axle of the old trailer, can be lowered one ratchet at a time. Note the ratchet strap between the fore and aft lifting straps to stop them spreading due to the shape of the keel.

showing top connection of lifting strap via truck chain to lifting frame post

overall view showing weight has been taken off the Bunks

Starboard Side

Once I have made the adjustable brackets for the two rear posts, I will then be able to fully lower the boat in to the slings little at a time. If the weight of the boat stretches the lifting straps, and lowers the boat too much, I will then be able to jack the boat back up again, shorten the chains and then re lower the boat. Then I will be able to remove the screw jack stands, remove the old trailer, replace jack stands and do the centreboard and then run the new trailer under the boat. Can't wait, Ha Ha and then we will all know what it weighs.

Regards Peter T

[Peter T]

Thanks David for your kind words. As you say, if a job is worth doing , then do it once and do it right. My motto.
Anyway, today has been a big day in the world of the lifting frame. I first greased the trailer bearings and fitted the seals. then, see the photos below for further explanation. It went like clockwork, and I could not be happier.
lowered the trailer a few inches at a time, then raised the boat off the screw jacks and lowered them and then lowered the boat back on the the jacks until the boat's weight was eventually taken by the lifting straps.

Once this was done, the trailer could be lowered to the ground and removed

Look mum, no trailer!

the two ratchet straps I had worked well to prevent the spread of the lifting straps due to the shape of the keel, which I did not want.

What a joy. the boat sits very sturdy in the lifting cradle. the four side braces were an excellent idea and supports the boat exceptionally well with no rocking noticeable.
One horrifying moment was when I went to fit the wheels back on to the old trailer, I noticed that one of the wheels had two to three inches of lateral movement in it. The previous owner had told me that he had fitted new wheel bearings to the trailer. What I found was that when he replaced the outer bearing, he failed to use the washer and this allowed the nut to be done up too much for the cotter pin to prevent the axle nut from coming undone. How I made it home in that condition, I will never know, but I reckon I must have had some divine intervention ( wouldn't be a bad name for a boat may-be)
Anyway, I have now run the new trailer under the boat and tomorrow will fit the bunks and make it secure on the trailer before sneaking up to the weigh bridge so we will then know bare boat plus trailer weight and have the knowledge to adjust the fore / aft of the axle to give the correct tow ball download. then I will be able to fit the mud guards.
Stay tuned.
Regards Peter T