Replace centreboard cable

[Craig12]

I need to replace my centreboard cable as it looks worn and about to snap. It’s actually not a steel cable, more an old bit of shock cord that’s very weather worn. I have read that it can be replaced by going through the top of the centreboard case. My case appears to be fibreglassed over and it states in an article I read that the fibreglass can be cut away to do this. Anyone done this or any thoughts?
I have attached a file.

Thanks
Craig

[Ozzie]

Craig, the original setup for the boat was ss cable swaged to the cb pull ring then up through the cb case top and it’s glassed in tube and then a swaged loop connecting to chord up inside the flexible join area above . (With sufficient ss not to catch in the narrow entrance when the cb was fully down )

I doubt you would have all shock cord right to the cb but anything is possible. Try removing the connector pipe and see if you have the swaged join . If the ss is sound you can add new cord, use an attached pull cord when withdrawing the old shock cord stuff to get your new cord through.

Many owners including myself have done away with this arrangement and gone full spectra or dyneema right through. This will however require working underwater or at least dropping the cb down far enough on land to attach a new cord .

The glass pipe top is above water level so no issue removing it on the water. For underwater attachment you could conceivably have a long cord pre tied with a suitable shackle. Pre attach a thin strong pull chord (maybe 2mm spectra or paracord) to the cable below the metal swage. Cut your metal swage off inside and allow it to drop. You don’t want the cb to crash down into the front of the case so have the diver there to damp the force. I’ve done it and it’s quite controllable. Watch fingers.

Then attach the pull cord (up on deck securely to the bitter end of you new cb cord and slowly pull it all back through the system. When appropriate length is pulled through get your diver to attach the (small) shackle to the pull ring. If they can hold their breath long enough to tie a buntline hitch underwater to the existing cb pull ring you don’t need the small shackle. If you use a shackle (flat one would be best) replace the finger bolt with a suitable flat headed hex or Phillips head bolt to reduce the potential for it to catch. There is sufficient room for a swage in the original setup so a small ss shackle should fit. Maybe. Personally I recommend the full replacement with the buntline hitch. Only one failure point. Peter suggests a stopper knot at the pull end just placed to stop the cb heavily impacting the case on the drop down if you lose control of the cord. Good idea.

These are just suggestions. Others may have developed slicker methods. Good luck .

Ps in my boat there is a fairly narrow opening between the cb case “roof” and glassed in pipe above with a turning block, not turning in mine, glassed in to reduce friction on the cable. Use caution with down and up pull through joining attachments at this spot.

[Craig12]

Thanks Ozzie, I will have a look into it. New spectra or dyneema sounds the way to go eventually, once I work out the condition of what I have.
Cheers
Craig

[Peter T]

Hi Craig, do you know if the stainless wire is attached to the centreboard or not ? It may have been replaced but usually you will find that the stainless only goes between the loop in the centreboard and just into the boat where there could be a loop swaged in the stainless where the cord attaches from there to the top. It's difficult to know what you have unless you slip the plastic tube off the fibreglass tube and have a look. That is where the two should join if it still got the stainless wire. I was going to replace mine with Dynema all the way but because the little pulley that the stainless wire runs over which if sibreglassed into the centreboard case was seized, I then did not want to run the Dynema over the seized pulley for fear of it fraying so I left the stainless wire there and just replaced the cord, the top piece. I also fitted one of those little nylon balls in the cord to use as a stopper as Ozzie said and also fitted a pull start handle to the end of the cord for ease of operation and ease of lowering the board slowly so it does not slam into the front edge of the centreboard case

[Andrew]

Craig, the original setup for the boat was ss cable swaged to the cb pull ring then up through the cb case top and it’s glassed in tube and then a swaged loop connecting to chord up inside the flexible join area above . (With sufficient ss not to catch in the narrow entrance when the cb was fully down )

I doubt you would have all shock cord right to the cb but anything is possible. Try removing the connector pipe and see if you have the swaged join . If the ss is sound you can add new cord,

G'day Craig, Here is a link to my Blog post about servicing my lift cord, there are a few pics that illustrate what ozzie is saying.

http://teria563.blogspot.com/2015/02/

I had a lift-wire jamming problem, it may have been caused because the lift wire may have been gradually shortened from design length by previous repeated cutting and re-swaging of the lower wire to centerboard lift lug..(perhaps electrolysis of dissimilar metals at a permanent sea mooring? or never hosed out with fresh water after each sail )

If it goes beyond just replacing the top cord and you have to go into the belly of the beast, then there is plenty of experience among forum members. My blog has other posts about the centerboard and case. There is also a Facebook Investigator 563 group, which may help (more photos plus advise)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/840471046047374