I bought 'Missy'

[Peter T]

Yes Geoff what it actually is, the single lead ingot at the very back just behind the centreboard case actually has a front lip to it and that cross bulkhead that sits down right at the back of the centreboard case in the keel, actually sits on that lip of the lead with some of the lip protruding forward of the bulkhead. Then, the lead ingots on either side of the centreboard case sit in there on their edge starting right in front of the back lead.

The side pieces of lead then sit higher than the lip at the back and then there is a VERY light layer of fibreglass over the side lead ingots but it is not fibreglassed over that lip that I am talking about. In other words, if water gets down into those two small lower sections ( about 2 inches square) right at that back ,small bulkhead that are lower than the side lead, because it's not sealed there by being covered with fibreglass, then the water can seep down there and sit under and around the lead each side of the centreboard case.

Because there is no seal at the bottom of the bulkheads in the keel front and back of the centreboard case, then this water can flow forward and back in the lead compartment and you would never know that it is there. With the boat on the trailer and you wind the jockey wheel up high, the water will flow to the back. If you lower the jockey wheel so the front of the boat is as low as you can get it, then the water will flow right to the front. This is how mine was although the water in mine got there through torn fibreglass on the under side of the keel.

Once you have dried it out as much as possible with the boat sitting level, you could then use a syringe with a needle on it and stick the needle down in that little lower portion at the back and see if you can suck up any more water. Also, if you raised the front of the boat, I reckon that water would then flow back and fill that lower section again. If this is the case, I would remove the lead as I said previously to dry it out properly, but, if you are lucky and those two small lower sections are actually sealed with flow coat of paint, then there may not be water down under the lead .

If there is, you wouldn't want to leave it sodden down in there as over time it wouldn't do the boat any good at all. Also, there is thin pieces of foam wedged each side of the side lead ingots which absorbs water so it gets held in there sodden.Just really worth a thorough check. Let me know how you go. If it is wet there, I can help you fix it. Good luck.

Looking at the photo you will see where that little lower section is at the back of the lead. In this shot, you can see that I filled around the lead with pouring some expanding foam around the lead. That lip of the back lead can be seen here in white. This was then filled with bog and then fibreglassed over the whole thing, sealing it permanently.

Cheers
Photo below is after it was fibleglassed.

[Geoff]

Thanks Peter, I will check it out and get back to you.

[snoopebj]

Yep that’s the tape Geoff. A word of warning from my own stuff-up, take care when applying the tape, once applied you’ll never get it off except with a chisel. It has worked well for me no leaks or problems. On the front window I did use a couple of small bolts on each end to bend the perspex as well as using the tape. Works great.
My original post few years ago.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=339&p=1503&hilit=Joe+diy#p1503

[Geoff]

Beauty Emrys, thanks.

I will have a couple of settlers first to steady the hands. But not too many to lose concentration. Somewhere between the 2nd and 3rd beer I reckon.

[snoopebj]

I found a bottle of Jameson scotch did the trick for me Geoff.
Good luck.

[Ozzie]

A thought Geoff. When I considered using tape on my replacement windows I thought of setting up a big offset gate hinge just held on with cheap easy remove double sided tape on the cabin side and the glass . Set up so that the window hinges perfectly into place, lift up then add permanent tape to boat and swing down glass, after it has all set remove hinge. I chickened out and used glue and screws.

[Geoff]

Right Chief, the old protective screen on the smartphone trick. Thanks Ozzie, that's up for consideration.

But I do have a perfectly good wife who has proven a better than average TA over the years too.

I am still umming and aghing. I can see the benefits of the tape, but I have resealed many car and truck windows over the years with different forms of mastic. It is hard to let go of the familiar. And the screw and glue is more forgiving at instal with the bit of slip it provides.

It's great having options, and especially documented experiences to follow.